When I begrudgingly moved from Florence to Milan, I was positive that it would feel too much like living in the United States, albeit with much better food and a higher ratio of Vespas to humans. In my mind, the true Italian spirit was to be found in the small towns with cobblestone streets, clotheslines, one main piazza, and old women spying on pedestrians from their apartment windows. Milan, on the other hand, was where you went for some proper shopping, a concert, or maybe some glam fashion event.
It’s true that Milan is a business city. It’s a little less “clotheslines and cobblestones,” and a little more “briefcases and discotecas.” But after almost a year in the city, I’ve found that it still has an Italian feel with a slightly urban spin. And I was placated by the fact that Milan has a rich museum scene featuring 19th and 20th century art (aka my favorite kind). Florence also has spectacular museums, but Renaissance art can only hold my attention for so long. Drop me off at a modern art museum, and I’ll be entertained all afternoon.
Whether you’re just visiting Milan for a weekend or you’re laying down roots for a while, here are six museums that I would highly recommend penciling in to your travel itinerary or weekend plans.
Galleria d’Arte Moderna
The building itself is just as dreamy as the collection inside, which dates back to 1790 and served as home to Napoleon for a short period. Casually stroll into the palace with marble floors and elaborate chandeliers, which feels like an artwork in and of itself. The first floor contains paintings and statues by mostly Italian artists from the 20th century while the second floor boasts a private collection with a smattering of post-impressionist art featuring artists such as Modigliani, Morandi, Gaugin, and even one Van Gogh. There’s also an English style garden out back that is open to the public if you fancy a leisurely, aristocratic stroll.
I would spend about 2 hours here. Admission: $10
Palazzo Morando
When countess Lidia Caprara Morando Attendolo Bolognini passed away in 1945, this palazzo was left to the Municipality of Milan. A treasure in the middle of the San Babila area, close to Montenapoleone, the palace has a free art museum on the first floor and often hosts fashion exhibitions. I came across the place after a museum guard at another museum I was visiting recommended it to me (shoutout to my homeboy Baldassarre). Palazzo Morando is unique in the fact that the majority of its paintings show Milan and its transformation between the 16th and 19th centuries. It’s so cool to see landscapes of the Naviglio, the Duomo, and familiar churches and boulevards through a historical lens. One half of the first floor focuses on paintings while the other half preserves the decor of the aristocratic apartments from the 18th century.
Entrance is free to the public
Museo di Novecento
Arguably one of the prettiest museums from the exterior, this futuristic box shaped building will surely catch your eye as you buzz about the Piazza del Duomo. Located directly across from The Galeria, the modern layout has you swirling up a ramp to explore the three floors of modern art from the 20th century. The collection includes Matisse, Picasso, and Modigliani; assorted Italian masters from the 20s and 30s; and Futurism by Giacoma de Balla and Umberto Boccioni. Moving up to the top floor, you’ll find a selection of abstract art and a breathtaking view of Piazza Duomo. You can post up by the full length glass windows and watch the crowds filter through the square, as they pause to stop for selfies or inexplicably feed swarms of Italian pigeons. On the ceiling is a funky neon light modeled after a sketch by Michelangelo himself.
Admission: $10 full price, $8 reduced
Galleria d’Italia
Situated in Piazza all Scala, this grandiose gallery has another gasp-worthy interior with an open marble-floored atrium. The exhibitions change every six months or so, but you can enjoy a wealth of 19th century Lombard paintings as well as an impressive collection of works by Francesco Hayez, which are on permanent display. The museum also trails back to the expansive 20th century collection containing a range of styles from post WWII spatialism to pop art. This is my favorite museum in Milano (so far).
Admission: 10 euro adults, 5 euro for those under 26
Pinacoteca di Brera
Although its principle collection consists of Renaissance and Neoclassical art, the prestigious Pinacoteca also contains several rooms of 18th and 19th century art. You have to stop by simply to see the “The Kiss,” the famous painting by Hayez. You’ll also find works by Canaletto, Boccioni, and Modigliani in the rooms towards the back of the gallery. If you’re into all types of art, this is the perfect museum for you.
Admission: $12 full price, $8 reduced
Museo Casa Boschi di Stefano
A little known treasure in the Buenos Aires area of Milan, this house museum is well worth a visit. Walk through the apartment and take in an array of masterpieces adorning the walls in each room. You’ll find works by de Pisis, de Chirico, Morandi, and many other Italian artists. The apartment only contains about 7 or 8 roms but they’re all chalk full of paintings – yes, even in the bathroom. Stop here for a creative and refreshing exhibition experience, strolling through the apartment of former art aficionados, instead of a classic museum.
Entrance is free to the public
