A city as rich in history as it is in gastronomy, it can be overwhelming to decide just where to eat in the compact but restaurant-heavy Florence.
It seems that for every religious street shrine you pass (and you’ll pass a lot), there are ten different bars, trattorias, and restaurants competing for space in your stomach.
After four years of living in Italy, I think it’s safe to say I’ve been around the Renaissance block a time or two.
I’ve eaten my fair share of pasta. I’ve been disappointed, delighted, and have ridden a number of culinary highs.
Now I’m here to report back so that you can enjoy only fabulous fare during your time in the city.
Here are some of my favorite restaurants, trattorias, panino stops, and aperitivo bars to check out while in beautiful Florence.
For fantastic Florentine food in a casual atmosphere:
Alla Vecchia Bettola
Bustling, raucous, and enchanting, this is by far my favorite place to eat in Florence. Tucked in a corner just off Piazza Tasso, this petite trattoria is very popular with foreigners and locals alike.
You may end up sitting at a communal table with other people but that’s just part of the fun. There’s both indoor and outdoor seating and the waitstaff has a relaxed “what’ll it be” type of attitude.
They have a superb mix of Tuscan specialties, pasta and meat, and this is the type of place you’ll never leave feeling hungry.
Load up on the house wine, get some coccoli, and make sure you try the signature pasta alla vecchia bettola. It’s the kind of dish you find yourself daydreaming about, weeks later, in the middle of a meeting when your stomach is rumbling.
Trattoria Casalinga
Downhome Tuscan cookin’ in a relaxed environment. The prices of this traditional trattoria are as divine as the food itself. Spring for a primo, secondo and some contorni to share. Heck, get an antipasto and dolce too. If you’re brave, try the liver (fegato in Italian). It’s my absolute favorite.
Trattoria Sabatino
Situated just outside the city walls in San Frediano, this no-frills trattoria is the epitome of the “locals’ watering hole.” It gained some more fame after the late Anthony Bourdain visited it during one of his specials. The food isn’t exactly gourmet but it’s authentic, affordable, and tasty. Perfect for a laid-back lunch or dinner with friends.
Trattoria Marione
This charming little trattoria has two restaurants just a street away (overflow parking for hungry humans). Quaint and cozy, kind of like dining at your fancy nonna’s living room, the atmosphere is easygoing but what they serve up is seriously tasty. I had some of the best pici of my life here.
For an elevated date night or hosting guests:
4 Leoni
Slightly on the fancier side, this trattoria is both a lunch and dinner time favorite in the picturesque Piazza alla Passera on the Oltrarno side of Florence. They have a classic Italian menu with a scrumptious selection of pastas, meat, and a thorough wine list. This could be a good spot for a low key but romantic date night.
Perseus (for bistecca fiorentina)
You can’t come to Florence without trying its speciality, la bistecca fiorentina. Two of the best places to do so are Perseus, which is slightly outside the city center. While I’ve only ever been to Perseus specifically for the steak, the restaurant itself has all of the Tuscan charm you’d seek for a normal meal as well. It’s a little more on the casual side.
La Beppe Fioraia
One of Florence’s hidden gems, La Beppe Fioraia, which is situated at the base of Piazzale Michelangelo (before the stair saga, don’t worry), is a restaurant that almost feels like a greenhouse with a glorious back garden that’s open in the summertime.
It’s definitely on the fancy side so I’d dress up a bit if you go for dinner. They have a wonderful wine selection and serve up traditional Italian fare.
O’Munaciello
If pizza is on your mind, take your date, family, or friends to O’Munaciello in Santo Spirito neighborhood. I’m a sucker for ambience and the purposefully dim lighting and neapolitan decorations of this hidden restaurant make your dining experience all the more eccentric.
They have a hearty menu of delicious pizzas, featuring the classics and their own creations, as well as antipasti, beer, wine, and desserts.
For aperitivo:
Note di Vino
I love this place with my entire heart and soul. Located on my former street, Borgo dei Greci, this little wine and aperitivo bar is the absolute best for grabbing a tagliere (charcuterie board) and a bottle of wine, with a view of the majestic church of Santa Croce. They also have the best schiacciata here in my opinion! But I’m biased because I really, really love them. Hi Lorenzo.
Il Sabatino
When I say it’s a hole in the wall, I am not exaggerating, but what Il Sabatino lacks in size it makes up for in flavor. There are only a few tables inside this enoteca in the Santo Spirito area of Florence, but they have fantastic wines (obviously) and their crostini are to die for. It’s perfect for a gossip session with your best friend, which is what I’m usually doing there.
Il Rifrullo
A favorite among locals, Il Rifrullo is a funky coffee shop by day and nightlife hot spot when the sun goes down. They have an adorable back garden and a great cocktail selection. You can also sip on wine and try out their meat and cheese boards here. They’ve got a mix of everything and have aperitivo specials.
Santa Rosa
The place to be when the weather is nice, Santa Rosa is a mixture of beatnik eclectic and elegant dinner party. This garden-bar just outside Porta San Frediano is as aesthetically pleasing as it is enjoyable. Come for a cocktail at happy hour and if you’re up for it, stay for dinner. Be sure to reserve a table ahead of time as it fills up fast.
Read more: The Best Cafes for Studying/Working in Florence
For a quick panino (that you may have to munch on the curb):
Note De Vino
See above. Their schiacciata are the perfect size to really fill you up and have the most mouth-watering ingredients – truffle sauces, sun-dried tomatoes, fresh rucola, ugh the works. This is my favorite panino spot in the city.
SchiacciaVino
This petite panino spot is right off the square of Santa Croce. A great spot for a quick lunch and regroup session between sightseeing. Get a glass of wine to wash down one of their many tasty (and sizable) panino options.
All’Antico Vinaio
If you see fifty people waiting in line for something and it’s not for the Uffizi, chances are they’re in line for All’Antico Vinaio. This is the panini spot that took off on the Internet years ago and hasn’t slowed down since.
There are now several different locations around the city, but the original is in Via dei Neri, and YES, their panini are delicious.
It’ll run you about 6 to 9 euro for a massive sandwich that’s bigger than your head, and you have to find your own section of curb to eat it on with a ratio of pigeons that you can tolerate (go to the Arno and hop up on the wall).
I’d say it’s something of a must when you’re in Florence. But I truly think Note de Vino is better.
Come Dio Comanda
My second favorite spot for a panino, Come Dio Comanda is just a little shop across from the church of San Niccolò.
There’s room for about three people to order inside and I think they have approximately one chair outside so you’ll have to find your own spot to munch, but their sandwiches are heavenly.
I’d recommend getting I’Grande Classico and heading up to the Giardino delle Rose to enjoy it with a panoramic view of Florence.
For gelato:
La Carraia
My favorite gelato spot in the city, they have two locations and oh-so-many different flavors to try. Apart from the classics, La Carraia also creates a few of its own signature gusti. You may have to queue up for this if you come when it’s hot and sunny, which is a great portion of the year. I typically go for Bacio (chocolate hazelnut) and Crema. So creamy, so indulgent, so worth every calorie.
Vivoli
Vivoli is a historical gelato spot in the Santa Croce neighborhood. The charming shop has a few tables inside and has a sort of retro, days-of-yore appeal. I came here for a tour once during my study abroad program to see how the gelato was made and have been coming back ever since. I know it sounds weird, but ask for a sample of the Riso (rice) flavor. I love it.
Gelateria dei Neri
Located on the busy Via dei Neri, this gelateria has all of your favorite flavors and then some. It’s number three on my list of best gelato and there are a few tables inside if you’re lucky enough to grab one, but then again, it’s more fun to eat gelato while walking around no? Try the salted caramel here. Yum.
Read more: Best Gelaterias in Florence, Italy
